The Savile Feed

FROM THE OUTPOST

Tue, 12 Apr 2011 00:10:39 EDT

Stopping by Lark last weekend, I came across this lovely military field parka from Chimala. Rugged and Japanese-made I can't help but think the cut would look better on the ladies than the fellas.

>Lark

Starting to casually look into getting some work for the upper arm has lead me to browsing the site and blog of artist Scott Campbell. Though I've heard the name come up quite a fair bit over the last few months after collaborations with Louis Vuitton and successful gallery showings, I've only recently started to research him further. Likely a long shot, but an interesting site to browse nonetheless.

>Scott Campbell

100 Classic Atari games now for your iPhone and iPad. You're welcome.

>Atari's Greatest Hits

New Balance recently launched their online customization program for the 574 and tapped Jake Davis for a pretty little promo piece.

>Jake Davis

If you've ever perused the Internet in search of inspiration or typography you've no doubt come across these vintage subways signs and bus scrolls. Simple, classic and beautiful.

>Flying Junction

I'm not usually one to keep up with collaborations, but I was really excited to hear about Filson Red Label — a partnership between Filson and Japanese-label nanamica.

>Filson Red Label by nanamica

Lastly, because everybody loves a good list to click through, somebody has lovingly compiled a collection of Seinfeld's Nikes throughout the years.

>Complex

KENT FOLDING COMB

Mon, 11 Apr 2011 17:06:51 EDT

If you know me at all, you'll already know this has me written all over it. Getting the obvious out of the way, yes I do bring a comb with me everywhere I go. Having the option of folding it to half-size means it will inconspicuously slide in and out of my front pocket. The second reason for this match made in heaven is the history behind Kent; having been around since 1777, the British company continues to retain the craftsmanship and unprecedented quality that is it's reputation. The folding comb in question is completely hand-made, each tooth has been individually hand-sawed, beveled, and polished to ensure perfect hair penetration without scratching the scalp. I can go on, but it is after all only a comb.

>Kent Folding Comb

LONEWOLF INDIE STRAPS

Thu, 07 Apr 2011 16:34:10 EDT

Designed out of Chile, Lonewolf Indie straps are a great way to stylize that camera hanging around your neck or that Les Paul you're slinging around the stage. With a stong influence on the aesthetic codes of alternative culture and independent music, the straps are handmade with resistant, lightweight materials to maximize the comfort when using your instrument of choice. A great alternative to your standard, run of the mill leather straps.

>Lone Wolf

SCHEER ANKLE-HIGH LACE-UPS

Sun, 27 Mar 2011 23:28:43 EDT

I unfortunately can't tell you much about these beautiful ankle-high lace-up shoes made from beige calf suede from Viennese shoe company Scheer but they certainly are gorgeous. Not having previously heard of this brand, some brief research reveals quite a history behind this small operation. Still family-owned, 7 generations later, lead shoemaker Markus Scheer oversees the entire handmade manufacturing process, right down to sourcing "the natural leathers collected over many generations int he Scheer family's own leather storehouse."

>Scheer

THE WEEKND

Fri, 25 Mar 2011 17:13:27 EDT

Internet anti-music sensation Rebecca Black isn't the only calendar-obsessed star on the rise. After a handful of promising singles and this week's free mixtape, House of Balloons, Toronto artist Abel Tesfaye, aka The Weeknd, is way more deserving of your attention. His brand of dense, brooding R&B draws from Prince's sneering sexuality, Michael Jackson's restrained vulnerability and The-Dream's thumping, 80s-inflected production. It's both familiar and refreshingly original, not to mention well-calculated. The timing, the music, Tesfaye’s Burial-like anonymity; it’s a measured blend of hype and mystery that has served him well in the frame of social media. Now, with the critical acclaim of his mixtape and rumblings of fellow Toronto native Drake already wanting to collaborate, the forecast is looking good for The Weeknd.

>The Weeknd

JACK SPADE ANCHOR WALLET

Mon, 21 Mar 2011 13:06:57 EDT

The Embossed Anchor series from Jack Spade recently caught my eye—wallets made from vegetable dyed cowhide embossed with a repeat burnished anchor. Being a fan of the brand and a bit of a sailor myself, I picked one up on a recent visit to the shop on Greene this weekend. I'm liking the details, specifically the interior lining screened with vintage tattoo flash artwork. While the series includes 3 sizes, an international bill holder, credit card holder and vertical card holder, I opted for the latter which combined slim sizing with enough space to carry what you need.

>Jack Spade

NAVID BARATY'S BLIZZARD

Thu, 17 Mar 2011 13:43:47 EDT

Photojournalist Navid Baraty posted some gorgeous pictures on the Behance Network of the monstrous snow storm that hit New York City in January. In hindsight, a blizzard of this scale is a walk in the park compared to recent events in Japan and New Zealand, but judging by these photos it brought the city to a standstill nonetheless. An internationally-acclaimed photographer, Baraty has worked with a number of publications, including National Geographic and Men's Journal. His portfolio focuses a great deal on epic natural landscapes, and he's developed a real penchant for capturing the spirit of each setting. With the storm as his muse and Brooklyn's Park Slope as his setting, his treatment of light and composition really grasps winter's tug-of-war between hostility and stunning beauty.

>Navid Baraty

MISMO 2011 F/W COLLECTION

Wed, 16 Mar 2011 17:13:06 EDT

Absolutely love the new 2011 Fall/Winter collection from Danish luggage-makers Mismo, who always seem to impress season after season. The use of custom developed, 100% vegetable tanned leather, an extremely rugged yet sophisticated material, highlights the vast selection of bags, briefcases, and accessories. As with most of their designs, the look is minimalistic, simple, and classic.

>Mismo

NANAMICA CRUISER JACKET

Thu, 10 Mar 2011 22:07:49 EST

This Gore-Tex Cruiser jacket has been out in Japan for a little while now but has begun to pop up in some shops in North America. While Nanamica is still fairly difficult to track down outside of Japan, some select shops are making more and more small buys every season. I love the timeless cut and colour of this Cruiser along with the fact that it has some nice technical details, especially in the seam-sealing. The price is way outside my range, but it never hurts to look. Well, at least not for long.

>Roden Gray

STARMAN: YURI GAGARIN

Tue, 08 Mar 2011 22:49:21 EST

I fully acknowledge it's a bit odd to co-sign a book without having read it, but sometimes a couple of excerpts or jacket cover is all it takes. Such is the case with the excerpt I found at The New York Times for Starman: The Truth Behind the Legend of Yuri Gagarin. Men have always been somewhat fascinated with space travel in some form or another at some point in their life. We browse the Flickr streams, we always seem to catch the shuttle taking off or landing, and marvel at NASA's discoveries on a monthly basis. This book however, highlights a fairly unglamorous space travel experience. Not all that long ago, Time magazine did a terrific cover story on past American astronauts and some of the issues they faced returning to normalcy after achieving their life's greatest moment. It was something I had never really thought about until that point: What do you do after you've completed mankind's greatest feat? It's something that no doubt ways heavily on astronauts and Russian astronaut Yuri Gagarin seems to have been no exception. The excerpt is powerful and sad, though a nice change in perspective from the North American stories that always seem to grip us.

FINAL FRONTIERSMAN — ‘‘Starman,’’ written by Jamie Doran and Piers Bizony. The release of the biography, which has never before published in the United States, coincides with the 50th anniversary of Yuri Gagarin’s historic spaceflight.

>New York Times

>Starman: The Truth Behind the Legend of Yuri Gagarin

CLASSIC CHAMPION SWEATSHIRT

Sat, 05 Mar 2011 20:05:12 EST

I recently went back to my roots and picked up an original, plain gray Champion crewneck sweatshirt to wear underneath jackets on colder, rainy days here in Vancouver. They’re still as great as I remember them when I used to wear them for days on end when I was younger, and today, I’m able to appreciate its timelessness on a whole other level. Though no longer made in the USA, with a good weight to it and subtle embroidered Champion C logo on the sleeve, as far as plain sweats go, you’ll be hard pressed to find a better, affordable alternative. Just remember to size down as they fit pretty generously.

>Champion USA

LINDA MCCARTNEY

Tue, 01 Mar 2011 16:18:06 EST

For the most part of the sixties, Linda McCartney (née Eastman) was one of the most prominent photographers of the emerging rock scene. She was the official photographer for The Rolling Stones, and captured hundreds of thousands of candid shots of the most important musical acts in history; from Eric Clapton to Jimi Hendrix, to Bob Dylan, The Doors, and Michael Jackson. It was her profession that led her to Paul McCartney, and during their life together she documented some of The Beatles' most famous moments, from behind-the-scenes. Her soon to be released collection of works are as touching as they are interesting, capturing the essence of each moment in the simplest of ways. A definite must for any Beatles fan.

>Linda McCartney: Life in Photographs

FROM THE OUTPOST

Sun, 27 Feb 2011 22:23:44 EST

Some neat shots of some neat things from the CIA Museum.
>Flickr

National Geographic's ongoing Ultimate Factories series will provide a glimpse inside Mercedes-Benz this week.
>Ultimate Factories

Just had a chance to go over Rachel Comey's men's shoe store online and there are some lookers available.
>Rachel Comey

Your deal of the week is a hand-knit scarf from Inverallan, priced offensively-low. This may be one of your last chances as they've stopped taking individual orders altogether and have opted to work exclusively with select retailers such as Beams Japan and Inventory Stockroom.
>Inverallan on eBay

One of my favourite artists of the moment, Adele, was interviewed by Interview Magazine for her new album, 21.
>Interview Magazine

Gorgeous Holga digital camera just for fun (seen above).
>Holga D

If you're not already familiar, Jeff Bridges, is one hell of a photographer.
>Jeff Bridges

And randomly, here's a video of Thomas Edison riding a fixed gear bicycle.
>Vimeo

J DILLA MONTH

Mon, 21 Feb 2011 23:55:34 EST

February 10th marked the fifth anniversary of J Dilla's untimely death, and as is the custom in the hip hop community, tributes have been circulating all month. The legendary producer/MC more than left his mark, from early beginnings with The Pharcyde and the Native Tongues to his tragically short solo stint at Stones Throw, a discography that lives on posthumously after the enormous underground success of his seminal beat tape Donuts.

As #dillamonth draws to a close, a few notable projects paying respect to Detroit's finest are worth mentioning. B. Kyle's documentary 'Still Shining' - released on what would have been Dilla's birthday, February 7 - lacks in production value, but its heart is certainly in the right place. Plus, with appearances by big names like Common, Pete Rock, Erykah Badu and Q-Tip, the content is really engaging.

Dilla's label Stones Throw released a black-and-white print to commemorate the occasion (above). 'Behind the Beat' is a nicely-framed photograph of Jay Dee tweaking the boards. With minimal composition, it's a classy homage to an understated icon.

Liveagl.com recently dropped J Dilla's Treasures, a mixtape showcasing early work and rarities. A great mix for purists and beginners alike, it's a straightforward collection that sheds light on the evolution of his signature drum-heavy sound.

There are countless tributes out there, and there will be many, many more. J Dilla's legacy will endure for as long as people have ears.

>J Dilla: Still Shining
>J Dilla: Behind the Beat
>J Dilla's Treasures

THE SWEDISH STANDARD

Sat, 19 Feb 2011 23:43:08 EST

With much of the fanfare surrounding Japanese and American heritage workwear dominating the fashion media outlets, it’s easy to forget that other countries have heritages as rich and fruitful as their better-known competitors — Sweden being one of them. Bringing a typical Scandinavian, stripped-down take on functional wear, Dunderdon was founded by carpenter Per-Ivan Hagberg on the premise of creating distinct clothing that could also stand up to the demands of various workplaces of Scandinavian tradesmen. Launched in 1997 with a single pair of pants, that quickly became the national standard for builders and craftsmen, Hagberg eventually built on that success into a full collection for both men and women. We caught up with Hagberg quickly in between designing this season’s newest knits, sweaters, and outerwear.

The Savile: Can you tell us a little bit about yourself and your life before Dunderdon?

Per-Ivan: My training is as a carpenter. U used to build houses and my first exposure to the apparel industry came leater when I was recruited as a model. I did that for a couple of years, then became an agent for a denim brand being run by a good friend of mine. That’s where I started to design clothing, during this time, I was also doing shop build outs, furniture and interiors as well as inventing new machines and gadgets. In 1996, I started to think about launching my own brand. The goal was to make a timeless pant built on quality, function and simplicity. So on June 6th, 1997, I delivered my first products and it’s still what I do today.

The Savile: You founded Dunderdon on work wear, well before its resurgence in modern day America. What do you think of this resurgence? What about work wear in general inspired you to base Dunderdon around it?

Per-Ivan: Fashion will always return to work wear because it is based on function. Historically, work wear, sport and military is where all innovation has taken place and that’s why I feel these elements will always influence fashion. There will be periods of decadence, but people will always return to things that have authentic purpose. Dunderdon was founded on this belief.

The Savile: We've heard that each piece from the line has a specific purpose with no "fillers" to round out a collection. Are people still using Dunderdon to work in, or has it become more of a fashion brand now? Is there a difference between how people are using it Sweden versus the U.S.?

Per-Ivan: Each piece has a purpose in the collection, but the main thing is that we don’t put anything on the product that doesn’t have a specific function. We have two collections – a work wear line and a fashion line. In Sweden, work wear is about half our sales and fashion accounts for the other half. In the USA, it’s mostly fashion, however the work wear is available at your New York store and will be available in our Portland store opening this spring.

The Savile: Could you tell us a little bit about how you go about picking the materials you're choosing and your manufacturing?

Per-Ivan: We don’t have a wide variety of fabrics in the collection. What we do have is high quality, durable pieces that we feel offers good value. In work wear, we just launched a jacket and pant using vantage – an incredibly durable yet comfortable fabric that’s a mix of cordura and cotton. We’re also experimenting with more sustainable fabrics such as fleece made from recycled coffee grounds. In the fashion collection, we have a F/W 2011 jacket using ventile fabric from England. The jacket has removable air vest that you can inflate to stay warm.

The Savile: Are you putting your own pieces to the test and working outdoors with them?

Per-Ivan: Yes, I review and test all pieces in the collection myself and we also have a ‘test patrol’ for all work wear pieces. I’m still very involved in the day-to-day operation - acting as the design director for both the fashion and work wear collections. And there’s actually a lot of things that I can apply to clothing design from my past skills and background as a carpenter. Both are problem-solving efforts and in both, you’re always looking for simple, elegant solutions.

www.dunderdon.com

THE CRESCENT CITY KING

Sat, 19 Feb 2011 23:03:54 EST

In a city feted for its cuisine, Jacques-Imo’s holds a pretty special place amongst the local fare. Since 1996, the uptown New Orleans eatery has thrilled both locals and tourists alike with a unique blend of Cajun cooking and heavy Creole soul food, all spun through owner and chef Jacques Leonardi’s French culinary heritage.

Leonardi has a strong pedigree within New Orleans restaurant circles, through associations with legendary chefs Paul Prodhomme and Austin Leslie. Leonardi spent several years working in Prodhomme’s Big Easy mainstay K-Paul’s, a restaurant well known for the distinct flavors of its “magic seasoning blends”. Leslie, internationally known as the “godfather of fried chicken” and former owner of the celebrated Chez Helene restaurant, worked the fryer at Jacques-Imo’s before his unfortunate death in 2005. All the best characteristics of classic New Orleans food carry through to Leonardi’s kitchen, but with a unique emphasis that makes his restaurant stand apart.

The restaurant certainly owes a large debt to Leslie because he brought his killer fried chicken recipe to the menu and it absolutely lives up to his nickname. The fried chicken plate served at Jacques-Imo’s is one of the best you will find anywhere, served steaming hot, right out of the fryer, with just the perfect amount of Creole spice. Of course, the first thought that comes to your mind when you think about New Orleans cuisine is Cajun food, and while there are many traditional Cajun items on the menu, such as jambalaya, crawfish étouffée, and gumbo, what really carries Jacques-Imo’s over the line is soul food. Traditional Southern items like the aforementioned fried chicken, fried green tomatoes, country fried venison, smothered chicken and biscuits, and stuffed catfish, bring to mind easy country living in the best artery-busting way possible. This is not food for the overly health-conscious.

Two major highlights on the menu are the carpetbagger steak and the shrimp and alligator sausage cheesecake. The sausage cheesecake is a legendary item around Southern foodie circles and is really more like a dense quiche. It carries just the right amount of spice and is the top shelf item on the appetizer portion of the menu. The carpetbagger steak is a recipe with an origin claimed by both Americans and Australians, and in its simplest form is a steak stuffed with oysters. Jacques-Imo’s doesn’t stop there though, adding caramelized onions and blue cheese to the poached oysters inside the filet, and covering the whole thing in Tasso hollandaise sauce. It is the most highly recommended item on the entrees list by regulars and servers alike, and with good reason.

Ultimately, Jacques-Imo’s is a character restaurant, in keeping with its mother city. The atmosphere is vibrant and friendly. Reservations are generally not accepted, except in the case of large groups, resulting in hours-long waits. This, however, deters few and the front room bar, with a ceiling covered in ornately framed paintings, is packed with regulars and tourists alike sharing lively stories over hurricanes or Abita beers. It is a place for celebrations or a casual night out with friends, and should be the first name on a list of must-visit restaurants in the Crescent City. Just make sure to wear pants with a little slack in the waist, and bringing a defibrillator probably wouldn’t hurt either.

>Jacques Imo's Cafe

COMMON PROJECTS STANDARD DRESS SHOE

Mon, 14 Feb 2011 16:50:18 EST

There's no hiding my love for Common Projects. From the use of ultra soft high-end Italian leather to the overall minimalist aesthetic, everything falls perfectly into place. Even now with my needs moving towards dressier options, I can stick with what I know and absolutely love. Unassuming lines give this shoe an almost casual feel, but it will definitely add a touch of class to any look. If you're looking to subltely stand out, go with a grey dress shoe over black, you'll attract just the right amount of attention from a discerning eye.

>Très Bien Shop

SKATEISTAN: TO LIVE AND DIE IN KABUL

Mon, 14 Feb 2011 12:35:53 EST

Skateistan: To Live and Die in Kabul, a short 10-minute documentary that made waves at Sundance this year, is a truly inspiring look at the youth of Afghanistan and how they deal with life in a war-torn country through skateboarding. If you aren't aware of the project, it's a brilliant initiative:

Operating against the backdrop of war and bleak prospects, the Skateistan charity project is the world’s first co-educational skateboarding school, where a team of international volunteers work with girls and boys between the ages of 5 and 17, an age group largely untouched by other aid programmes.

>Skateistan: To Live and Die in Kabul

BARBOUR BONDED SUMMER BICYCLE JACKET

Mon, 14 Feb 2011 12:23:28 EST

Paying homage to their motorcycling and military history, Barbour's Beacon Heritage collection — a collaboration with Japanese designer Tokihito Yoshida — is an excellent example of the brand's iconic sartorial contribution to classic Bristish style. Simple and timeless.

>Barbour

SKOOKUM VARSITY JACKET

Thu, 03 Feb 2011 01:54:06 EST

Four Horsemen's latest collaboration with outdoor brand Skookum is a fine example of the direction menswear is headed in 2011. It's that perfect middle ground between the ongoing love affair with classic Americana and the emerging transition towards a more tailored style. Everything about this piece speaks to the success of the workwear trend, from the timelessness of the varsity design to the performance of the jacket's 100% Virgin Melton Wool. Meanwhile, with a deliberately trimmed-down body and narrower sleeves, the Letterman's slimmer, more modern take on an otherwise classic piece of rugged Americana suggests that changes are starting to ring.

>Four Horsemen